Week 1: Land's End to Frogpool
Pedn Vounder Beach, near the Logan Rock Inn
One week into this totally virtual journey, and I’m surprised by how much fun I’m having, running the same familiar routes close to home while imagining the progress I’m making along the map of Great Britain.
Google “street view” offers glimpses of scenery along the route. Here are a few highlights from the first week:
Outside Mousehole
The walkway to St. Michael’s Mount
Outside Mousehole. Much of this leg of the trip was rolling green hills like this. Apparently in England they have this thing called “rain” which we don’t see much in Colorado.
Fancy a pint?
Unlike the Naylor brothers, who pledged to “abstain from all intoxicating drink” during their 1871 walk on this route, I’m not at all opposed to popping into interesting-looking pubs along the way. Here are a few along this stretch of the journey:
The Logan Rock Inn - 16th century village pub in Treen, just up the hill from Logan Rock. The Rock used to be balanced precariously on the cliffs overlooking Pedn Vounder Beach, and was famed for its ability to rock back and forth on the cliff top with the slightest touch. However, the rock was dislodged by a group of seamen in 1824… after which they were forced by locals to reposition the rock, as it had become a tourist draw. It wasn’t the same, though: after being restored to its previous position, the easily rocking nature was lost and now it takes much more force to move the 80-ton rock.
The Turk’s Head - Not particularly diplomatically named, this pub was established in 1233, supposedly when “during the crusades, the Turks invaded Penzance from Jerusalem.” Piracy was of course a big problem for centuries along this coast, so perhaps they meant Barbary pirates, not crusaders? In any case, the pub has a colorful history and has been there a very long time.
Pandora Inn - Speaking of interesting names, the Pandora Inn has had many over the centuries. What began as a farmhouse in the 13th century became known as the Passage House for the boat that was kept there to serve as a shortcut between Falmouth and Truro, and was later known as The Ship. It earned its current name in the 18th century, as a tribute to the HMS Pandora, which during the American Revolution, but met a sad end when it sank on the Great Barrier Reef off Australia in 1791, attempting to return some of the HMS Bounty’s mutineers to England for trial. Today, the Inn welcomes hungry travelers, whether they arrive by foot or by boat.
Sustenance for the Hungry Vegan
A quick Google search turned up an unexpected bounty of vegan dining options along the route, but Penzance seems to be a particularly rich vegan mecca, including these three spots…
Alverne - Chef Deryk Heywood enjoys developing a menu that is seasonal and makes the most of local ingredients. The menu offers a range of dishes including Spanish and “modern Mediterranean” flavors. Specials change daily and Alverne offers a separate 100% vegan menu.
The Artist Residence - This self-described “fun, friendly place to eat, drink and sleep” makes a point of including vegan options on its menu (which changes regularly to accommodate local produce). As a special bonus: the inn is dog-friendly.
The Front Room - A quirky central Penzance cafe and bar that offers sumptuous all day breakfasts, fulfilling lunches as well as baked goods and coffees. It is also dog friendly. Like the other restaurants mentioned, The Front Room makes an effort to use locally-sourced ingredients, and its vegan “traditional English breakfast” looks delicious.
